Black devotees, look away now… Colour is making a bold return. From head-to-toe monochromatic dressing to clashing multi-tone looks, the current mood is for super-saturated hues and striking blocks of colour – and no diluting the look with easy neutrals, ok? This is a beige free zone.
In its current incarnation, the trend properly kicked off during SS17. This season saw Céline dress its models in red tights with blue dresses, mulberry skirts with mint tops and pink dresses with mis-matched red and white boots. We told you, colour is the thing right now. Pucci opted for shades of carnation, lemon, electric blue and scarlet; some looks were tonal, in others the colours spliced each other as the fabric draped. Balenciaga shrink wrapped models into stretchy, neon spandex boots and leggings, pairing them with equally bright dresses and coats, to wit: purple and hot pink, clementine and cyan. Valentino, naturally, took a more modest approach. Long, lean dresses and coats in fuchsia or flamingo, some monochrome, some contrasted with panels of scarlet, walked the runway – a colour palette also favoured by Bottega Veneta and Vetements.
Designers clearly felt they were onto a good thing – the rainbow mood continued into AW17. At Valentino, long dresses and coats in red and pink (seemingly a house motif) were layered to striking effect. Claret and raspberry was the colour story at Victoria Beckham, while elsewhere the mood shifted towards the monochrome. Every look at Max Mara was tonal – from red to black by way of tobacco, mink, slate and (of course) camel – and multi-textured in velvet, silk and wool. Givenchy’s collection was drenched entirely in a vermillion hue; without multiple colours as a distraction it allowed the fabric (lace) and silhouette (strictly tailored) to take the focus.
"the current mood is for super-saturated hues and striking blocks of colour – this is a beige free zone"
Roksanda held a Pantone party – silken, draped and quilted looks in languid, layered silhouettes glided down the runway in shades of claret, scarlet, mustard and Nicoll blue (in memory of the British designer). Dresses were worn over billowing trousers, softly tailored jackets tamed the slippery silks underneath while leather obi-style belts kept things neater still.
The take home lessons? When choosing colours, go totally tonal or go for ‘the odd couple’ pairings. Opposites attract, right? Red and pink or red and blue has never looked so compelling – so don’t play it safe. If going head-to-toe, vary your textures. One shade of red can look entirely different in silk, wool or leather so layer up for visual, and tactile, interest – an added benefit of this look is that it makes the wearer look so impossibly pulled-together that they can’t help but walk with confidence.
Ready for the colour block party?